It started being noticed on the auction market for the past year with the first notification that something was up during the Elizabeth Taylor auction, when natural and cultured pearls (as well as everything else) sold well above estimates.
The April Christie’s New York Magnificent Jewels sale had several natural pearl sets that pretty much shattered auction estimates: including a five-strand natural pearl necklace that sold for $1.67 million, more than double its high estimate of $800,000; a single-strand natural pearl and diamond necklace by Tiffany & Co., from the Huguette M. Clark estate, sold for $362,000, shattering the estimate of $20,000 to $30,000; and a single-strand natural pearl necklace sold for $266,500, also smashing the estimate of $20,000 – $30,000.
This trend has been taken to the luxury retail level as natural pearl jewellery has once again become popular on the international market. It continued at the major jewellery shows in Las Vegas, which ended Monday.
Sweta Jain, president and designer of Goshwara, a jewellery design firm that specializes in colored gemstones, has family in the natural pearl business and has seen this demand first hand.
“Natural pearls are a real craze right now,” she said at her booth at JCK Luxury. “They were always a treasure to have but currently they are getting harder to source and the prices are extremely high. This makes them rarer and hence a collectors’ item—especially in the bigger sizes.”
This comeback for natural pearls is also helping those who sell fine-quality cultured pearls and for brands that use cultured and natural pearls in their designs.
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Autore Fire & Ice Lava Eruption pendant in yellow and white gold with black rhodium, with South Sea pearl,rubies, orange and yellow sapphires, sliced vivid yellow diamonds, and brown, black and white diamonds. |
Autore, the second largest company in the world that produces cultured South Seas Pearls, introduced a variety of jewellery designs that according to Philippe Poix, international executive director of jewellery sales, work “around the elements and architecture” to produce pearl jewellery that are reflect natural scenes.
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Mastoloni White Ice Fleurette earrings, using 14mm South Sea pearls that dangle from fleurettes of briolette cut black and white diamonds. Accented by brilliant full cut diamonds set in 18kt white gold. 11.42 twt. |
Mastoloni, which specializes in cultured pearls from around the world, is primarily known by retailers. The company is looking at starting a consumer campaign to get its brand more known. In addition, it is moving toward creating statement jewellery pieces with gold and diamonds.
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Ivanka Trump Tahitian pearl earrings on diamond French wire. |
At Ivanka Trump Fine jewellery, pearls were always part of the mix for its black-and-white themed jewellery collections. Andrea Hansen, CEO, said the company uses primarily cultured pearls and occasionally, natural pearls.
“Everything in the new collections is cultured—part of assuring the collections' price points but also that we can offer a consistent product,” Hansen said at JCK Luxury. “I'd use natural pearls in one-of-a-kind pieces (as we have in the past).”
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