JEWELLERY EDITORIAL

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2015/01/27

There’s a Swedish proverb which says, “To speak is silver, to keep silent is gold.” But India has a proverb which contradicts the Swedish thought. Indians feel that speech is key to success. Silent person can never sell his goods.

The art of India’s silver artisans have started to speak for itself which is now attracting interests of global silver markets. Vice Chairman of India’s Gem & Jewellery Export Promotion Council (GJEPC) Mr. Pankaj Parekh says,

"Jewellery lovers in the US and the other nations of European Union have opted to buy sterling silver ornaments since gold prices raised high in 2011. The silver manufacturing technology with core designing skill and modern touch was also procured by Indian jewellers from the persistent leaders in this field like Italy. Thus, now we can compete with global leaders in silver jewellery, which has helped India receive good orders."

 

According to the latest figures made available the GJEPC, sharp fall in silver prices has made silver jewellery preferable among the overseas consumers, especially from the United States and the European Union where sterling silver ornaments replaced white gold jewellery during last few years. While India’s overall gems and jewellery exports remained robust on global economic uncertainty, shipments of silver jewellery have witnessed a phenomenal growth in 2014. In September 2014 alone, shipments of silver jewellery shot up by a staggering 75% to Rs 1,543.96 crore ($253.69 million) this year versus Rs 925.84 crore ($145.23 million) in the same month of 2013.

The figures further indicate that India's silver jewellery exports achieved about 73% of the last 2013's figure in the first six months of 2014. Data compiled by GJEPC shows a massive growth of around 32% in India's silver jewellery exports at Rs 6,306.29 crore (

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,044.87 million) between April - September 2014 compared to Rs 4,680.37 crore ($793.68 million) during the same period last year.

While gold prices on one hand have gone down by 36% to trade currently at

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,228 an oz from its lifetime peak of
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,917 an oz in August 2011, silver prices on the other hand came down by a steep 64% to $17.25 recently from its all-time high of $48.44 an oz on April 28, 2011.

India can compete now with global silver leaders

 

As far as India’s imports of gems and jewellery are concerned, they have fallen by 9% to Rs. 1,85,883 crore in 2013-14 with a sharp decline in shipments of gold bars and jewellery due to government curbs. The country had imported gems and jewellery worth Rs. 2,04,253 crore in the previous financial year but inward shipments of rough and polished diamonds remained firm, according to the figures.

The data shows that import of gold bars went down by 47% to Rs. 32,540 crore in 2013-14 from Rs. 61,431 crore during 2012-13. Inward shipments of gold jewellery came down sharply to Rs. 3,497 crore from Rs. 25,037 crore in the review period. Import of silver bars fell to Rs. 222 crore in 2013-14 from Rs. 377.71 crore in the previous year.

However, the import of rough diamonds increased 24% to Rs. 1,00,374 crore from Rs. 80,992 crore in the previous financial year. Exports of cut and polished diamonds rose by 31% to Rs 39,586 crore from Rs. 30,200 crore, the GJEPC data indicates.

Summing up, Mr. Parekh says,

"India’s prospect for silver jewellery appears bright in 2014-15. There is a colossal demand for silver jewellery in the global market and thus the sector is expecting a growth of 10% in the exports this year compared to 2013-14."

 

 


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2015/01/27

In fashion – and make no mistake, jewellery design lies within this industry – we are always seeking ways to create something new, something fresh. A penchant for maximalism will lead into a season of minimalism; a vogue for vintage will be reprimanded into irrelevance with a smack of super modernism. Because you see, sometimes the easiest way to quench this thirst for newness is to turn the exiting trend on its head, which leads me to one of the most interesting jewellery styles making noise right now: earrings with big backs.

Traditionally the focus of an earring is all there up front: chandeliers, outward-projecting hoops, twinkling studs, even ear cuffs. But what is so easy to forget is that the post of an earring goes two ways, providing equal opportunity for design at each end.

 

THE HOOK

Shaun Leane was an early adopter of this trend and has moved his Signature Tusk collection forward with the addition of diamonds The ends of Asherali Knopfer's earrings can be unscrewed so that the arrows can be swapped for pearls

Shaun Leane was an early adopter of this trend and has moved his Signature Tusk collection forward with the addition of diamonds
from Roberto Demeglio

The ends of Asherali Knopfer's earrings can be unscrewed so that the arrows can be swapped for pearls


British jeweller Shaun Leane has long been making use of the much-ignored rear view of earrings. One of his most iconic designs is the Signature Tusk earring, which uses a much longer section of metal at the back, which doubles as the fastener, to give the appearance that the wearer has a caveman-esque tusk hooked through the ear.
 

These 14ct gold and Top Wesselton diamond Dauphin Etoile earrings by Sophie Bille Brahe turn the rules of earring design on its head These gold and diamond Thorn earrings by Stephen Webster are as beautiful at the back as they are at the front

These 14ct gold and Top Wesselton diamond Dauphin Etoile earrings by Sophie Bille Brahe turn the rules of earring design on its head
from Roberto Demeglio

These gold and diamond Thorn earrings by Stephen Webster are as beautiful at the back as they are at the front


This classic collection has been hugely popular, paving the way for similar designs, and has evolved in recent years with diamonds set into the back section of the tusks, making their rear even more eye-catching.

 

THE REVERSE DROP

The rear of these ruby, sapphire and 18ct gold  Rhodeia earrings by Leyla Abdollahi are the star of the design This earring by Delfina Delettrez has a pearl stud at the front and a long drop of pearls and ruby-set lips at the back

The rear of these ruby, sapphire and 18ct gold Rhodeia earrings by Leyla Abdollahi are the star of the design
from Roberto Demeglio

This earring by Delfina Delettrez has a pearl stud at the front and a long drop of pearls and ruby-set lips at the back


Perhaps the most popular way of interpreting this trend at the moment is to use a stud – quite often a pearl – in the traditional position in the centre of the lobe, but contrast it with a much larger and more flamboyant design dropping down from behind the ear.
 

A modern twist on the classic pearl stud by Sakura Pearl The Stabbed 18ct rose gold and Tahitian pearl by Hannah Martin makes a feature of the rear of the earring

A modern twist on the classic pearl stud by Sakura Pearl
from Roberto Demeglio

The Stabbed 18ct rose gold and Tahitian pearl by Hannah Martin makes a feature of the rear of the earring


Some designers are now creating feature earring backs that can be attached to existing earrings, allowing wearers to update their jewellery boxes instantly. Annoushka has created just such a product, the Frost earring back in 14ct yellow gold with a single Keshi pearl designed to hang below the lobe, and pop’s princess provocateur Rihanna has been snapped wearing one.

 

THE JACKET

Another way to work this trend without adding too much length to the design is the ear jacket, perfect for those who want to buy into this trend but prefer studs. This quirkily named design again uses a stud for the forward-facing section that fastens into a metal plate decorated with multiple jewels along its lower edge. When worn, the earring looks like one central stud in the lobe with a line of gems touching the bottom edge of the ear.
 

18ct rose gold ear jacket from Anita Ko set with sapphires and emeralds Revival emerald studs with diamond-set fan backs by Jemma Wynne

18ct rose gold ear jacket from Anita Ko set with sapphires and emeralds
from Roberto Demeglio

Revival emerald studs with diamond-set fan backs by Jemma Wynne


This interpretation can give lots of options for designs, and is a great way to display diamonds or coloured gemstones. Though the earring may look chunky off the ear, when worn it creates a delicate, precious effect. French designer Yvonne Léon and American jeweller Jemma Wynne have some great examples of this technique.

One interesting note with regards to both ear jackets and reverse drop earrings is that they are very often sold singularly, which taps into a further trend for asymmetrical earrings.
 

Jemma Wynne ear jackets in white gold with baguette and pave diamonds Fine jewellery will cater to a younger more fashion aware generation with edgier designs like these earrings by Leyla Abdollahi

Jemma Wynne ear jackets in white gold with baguette and pave diamonds
from Roberto Demeglio

Louis Vuitton is taking catwalk trends
to fine jewellery


This trend may certainly be backwards, but it’s fun and gently confrontational – guaranteed to start a conversation. And, after all, isn’t that what great jewellery should always do?

 

 


Visit www.JewelleryNewsAsia.com for more industry news and features.

 

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2015/01/23

A new report “Turkey: gold in action” from the World Gold Council, explores the role gold plays in the daily life of the world’s fourth largest consumer of gold, as well as examining its contribution to supporting the national economy.

Turkey is a microcosm of the global gold market – a country which is home to the entire gold value chain from mining and refining, to jewellery design and investment. Its long tradition of gold demand, underpinned by a deep cultural heritage, strong fabrication capacity and a substantial coin market has resulted in households accumulating an estimated 3,500 tonnes(t) (US$145.3bn) of gold tucked “under-the-pillow”, a term used in Turkey to refer to physical gold stored by the general population.
 


The report assesses the role that gold plays in consumers’ lives, examines the economic contribution of the entire supply chain and explores how the metal has been monetised to support the national economy. In 2012 alone, gold fabrication, consumption and recycling added at least US$3.8bn to Turkey’s economy. An innovative central bank policy introduced in 2011 incentivised commercial banks to create a range of gold-backed banking products to mobilise Turkey’s stock of gold. This improved the health of the banking sector by reducing costs and improving liquidity, as well as ensuring commercial banks boost their gold reserves. Policymakers have now successfully seen around 250t of gold (US$10.4bn) drawn into the financial system and put to work supporting Turkey’s economy.

 

Alistair Hewitt, Head of Market Intelligence at the World Gold Council said:

“Amid a challenging global economic climate, Turkey faces ongoing political and social pressures to ensure that it steers a steady economic course. Gold represents many things in this society – from employment for over a quarter of a million people in the gold industry, to an investment protecting people’s wealth against the ravages of inflation and currency weakness. It is also a unique example to the rest of the world of how gold can successfully be put to work at the core of a nation’s financial architecture.”

 

Some of the key findings from the research include the following:

  • Gold is deeply ingrained in Turkish culture. The use of gold coins as a medium of exchange was pioneered by merchants in Lydia – the precursor of modern Turkey - as far back as 700BC and continues to be one of the world’s largest official coin fabricators.
  • Turkey’s long-standing desire for gold has resulted in households accumulating a large stock of gold tucked “under-the-pillow”. An estimated 3,500t of gold has been collected by households. Gold makes a significant contribution to Turkey’s economy. Gold fabrication, consumption and recycling added at least US$3.8bn to Turkey’s economy in 2012 alone.
  • Gold is a small, but important cog in Turkey’s financial system. By the end of 2013, commercial banks held around 250t, equivalent to US$10.4bn, which had been put to work supporting Turkey’s economy. This includes 40t - about US
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    .7bn – of Turkey’s “under-the-pillow” stock, which has been mobilised since mid-2012.
  • With a well-developed post-production supply chain, Turkey has ambitions to become a regional refining and recycling hub. Turkey has a number of large scale refiners which refine doré to internationally accepted LBMA standards as well  as processing or recycling gold.
  • Its gold mining industry is small, but growing quickly. Gold production has increased in almost every year since 2001, growing from 2t to 33.5t in 2013

 

According to the report it’s not just domestic demand that is strong. Turkey’s jewellery industry benefits from exports and a healthy tourist trade. Turkey’s gold jewellery exports boomed after export restrictions were lifted in 1983.  Italy still claims the number one spot, but for some time Turkey has been the world’s second largest exporter of gold jewellery. Its biggest export market is the Middle East, but it also exports to the US, Russia and Germany. Between 1998 and 2013 the value of Turkish jewellery exports, most of which was gold, increased from US$209mn to US$3.3bn, generating valuable overseas earnings.

Download the full report from the World Council Website.

To experience the importance of gold in the Turkish Jewellery Industry, visit the Istanbul Jewellery Fair, organized in March and October of every year.

 


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2015/01/22

When looking at which trends will shape fine jewellery in 2015, there is one important factor to bear in mind: the demographic is getting younger, and cooler.

Women (and let’s face it, the fine jewellery market is dominated by the fairer sex) are no longer waiting to be bought jewellery as gifts, they are buying it themselves, and as such the styles are determined not by investment or sentiment but by what they actually want to wear.

 

FASHION-FINE DESIGNS


Fine jewellery can be fun as shown by this playful animal charm by Theo Fennell Fine jewellery will cater to a younger more fashion aware generation with edgier designs like these earrings by Leyla Abdollahi

Fine jewellery will embrace fashion such as
these geometic ceramic and diamond cuffs
from Roberto Demeglio

Louis Vuitton is taking catwalk trends
to fine jewellery


As the gap between male and female salaries closes, these self-purchasing women have serious money to spend, but they also have a taste more influenced by Instagram and street style than the contents of their mothers’ jewellery boxes.
 

Solange Azagury-Partridge black cherry Hot Lips ring in laquer and yellow gold is an example of fashion-fine jewellery The Juste un Clou bracelet by Cartier is an example of fashion-fine jewellery


Solange Azagury-Partridge
black cherry Hot Lips ring
in laquer and yellow gold


The Juste un Clou bracelet by Cartier


As such, we will continue to see the rise of fashion-fine jewellery in 2015. This sector of the luxury market is less concerned with stone quality and grams of gold than it is about great design. As a result, some of the major fine jewellery powerhouses have been working with younger designers to create jewels that speak to this new generation, but have the quality to last.

 

COUTURE’S CHOKERS


The emboldened connection between fashion and fine jewels is also why jewellery houses should be taking note of the catwalks.
 

An elaborate design with its channel setting of a repeated pattern of clawed set Ruby’s textured plates and small clawed set Diamonds. TOLEDO choker by Paula Mendoza


An elaborate design with its channel setting of
a repeated pattern of clawed set Ruby’s textured plates and small clawed set Diamonds
by
Designs Dubai UK Fashion Ltd.


TOLEDO choker by Paula Mendoza


One of the major jewellery trends to emerge from this arena in the past few seasons has been the choker, fuelled by fashion’s fling with all things 90s. This can be a difficult trend to tap into for fine jewellers due to the scale, but there are clever ways of doing so, such as using less metal by swapping it for strings of semi-precious gems, making a feature of negative space or using mesh structures to reduce weight.

As we move into 2015, I’m assured by jewellery trends analyst Adorn Insight that this trend will hold sway, and that we may see it develop further with the rise of the double choker.

 

COLOURED GEMS THAT STAND OUT


925 Larimar and Onyx Earrings by NNK Jewelry Co Ltd Handmade Fire Opal 18k Gold Cocktail Ring by Gemco Designs


925 Larimar and Onyx Earrings
by
NNK Jewelry Co Ltd


Handmade Fire Opal 18k Gold Cocktail Ring
 by
Gemco Designs


Another key trend set to continue in 2015 will be colour. Once the overlooked cousins of the brighter, sparklier diamond, coloured gems have had a barnstorming couple of years in fine jewellery, and this fiesta of colour is set to continue.
 

Baltic Amber Silver 925 Bracelet by GIELO S.C. Ugo Cala uses its own proprietory gemstone cut as shown in the Diva collection


Baltic Amber Silver 925 Bracelet by GIELO S.C.


Ugo Cala uses its own proprietory gemstone cut
as shown in the Diva collection


What we will see here is competition from the jewellery houses to find ever more unusual stones, and perhaps an increase in proprietary cuts.

 

NEXT-GENERATION PEARLS


One of the most transformed gems of recent times is the pearl. Its recovery from a stigma that had it pegged as overused and outdated has been staggering. And much appreciated, not least by me. The key to this trend is to use pearls in an unexpected way. Perhaps as an ear cuff, or an accomplice to an edgy, rather than classic, design.
 

Multi-stone earrings Pearl with brown diamonds and pink gold - Candy Pop Collection by Christina Debs shows pearls in a modern light Tahiti Pearl & Diamond Jewellery Sets by Wing Hang Jewellery Company Limited


Multi-stone earrings Pearl with brown diamonds
and pink gold - Candy Pop Collection
by Christina Debs shows pearls in a modern light


Tahiti Pearl & Diamond Jewellery Sets
by
Wing Hang Jewellery Company Limited


The future of the pearl trend in 2015 is all about evolution (quite literally), and as well as style, colour is a key area for development. Some pearl farms are experimenting with cross breeding oysters to create naturally occurring colours never seen before, and with only small batches available these unusual pearls are an exciting area for collectors.
 

We will see new colours of pearls entering the market such as this new hue from Yoko London Melanie Georgacopoulos is an expert at presenting pearls in surprising and modern settings


We will see new colours of pearls entering the market such as this new hue from Yoko London


Melanie Georgacopoulos is an expert
at presenting pearls in
surprising and modern settings


Convivial, lively, diverting, trendsetting, but, most importantly, still precious. Yes, fine jewellery can be fun and fashionable, and if there is one theme to knit some of 2015’s key trends together that’s it.

 

Gallery: Having Fun: Multi-style and Exceptional Jewellery


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2015/01/21

Kolkata Jewellery & Gem Fair 2015 (KJGF), a B2B international jewellery trade fair, hosted by UBM India in association with Calcutta Gems & Jewellery Association was concluded with a record of 6, 000 visitors in its second edition. 

Michael Duck, Executive Vice President of UBM Asia Ltd,  Dr. Amit Mitra, Minister In-charge,  Department of Finance, Commerce & Industry, Government Of West Bengal,  inaugurated the fair in January

 

UBM India's recent study with D&B clearly validates Kolkata being a favourite destination for lightweight plain gold jewellery. KJGF is a significant contributor towards UBM India’s footprint in the exhibition business on jewellery with successful and established shows in Delhi, Chennai, Hyderabad and Gujarat, reaching a large group of jewellers across India through exhibitions and road-shows.

 

With UBM's market penetration, KJGF has drawn significant attention from buyers and international sourcing delegates across Nepal, Bangladesh, Australia, Turkey and UAE, with over 200 hosted buyers. All lined up to witness the largest display of Traditional Bengal Gold and Diamond Jewellery in Kolkata. In addition to dedicated pavilions for gold and diamonds, the fair had a dedicated machinery pavilion promoting technical know-how in modern jewellery manufacturing with over 35 machinery companies.

 

KJGF is also marked by the Golden Hand Awards, India's only award which is a unique initiative the traditional 'karigars' for their craftsmanship. Chosen craftsmen were awarded for their exquisite gold and diamond designs. Actress Nimrat Kaur also made her presence as the showstopper at the Jewellery Fashion Show.

Mr. Joji George, Managing Director, UBM India said, "India's gems and jewellery sector has been one of the fastest growing industries globally. The sector has contributed 6-7% to India's GDP and provides gainful employment to around 2.5 million people. In our recent India study in with D&B, more than 40% of the surveyed jewellery companies adopted the trade exhibition strategy, making it the top marketing strategy to promote business, validating trade exhibitions as a powerful source for showcasing their business. It has been a constant endeavour of UBM India to provide a platform to the manufacturers and retailers of this segment, to connect and create business, thus meeting the larger industry needs of India. KJGF 2015 is one such platform, poised to raise benchmarks and fuel trade for the jewellery industry in East India. "

Gallery: Statement Jewellery from India


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