JEWELLERY EDITORIAL

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2016/02/05

The stars were out and the couture was on point at the Screen Actors Guild (SAG) Awards 2016 in Los Angeles, as some of the States’ best actresses dressed to impress for the annual awards ceremony held on January 30.

 

The most striking jewellery trend from the red carpet was a preference for creative earrings over elaborate neckwear. Mad Men star Christina Hendricks wore a pair of diamond chandelier earrings by Butani that hung well below her jaw line, while Queen Latifah, who won a SAG Award for her role in Bessie, opted for a long pair of geometric earrings studded with dark gemstones by Bavna.

 

TV presenter Zuri Hall wore a dazzling pair of modern diamond-set abstract hoops by Antonini that looped and twisted from her lobes. Kathryn Hahn, who stars in Amazon TV show Transparent, also opted for diamond earrings with a pair by Sethi Couture with baguette-cut diamonds creating a rectangular frame, while SAG nominee Diane Lane chose colourful earrings by Harry Kotlar that teamed white emerald-cut diamonds, yellow marquise-cut diamonds and round emeralds.

 

Kathryn Hahn, who starred in Amazon series Transparent, wore this pair of Sethi Couture diamond earrings Kathryn Hahn, who starred in Amazon series Transparent, wore this pair of Sethi Couture diamond earrings

Kathryn Hahn, who starred in Amazon series Transparent, wore this pair of Sethi Couture diamond earrings. Photo Source: Helga Esteb / Shutterstock
 

Nominee Diane Lane wore this pair of diamond and emerald earrings made by Harry Kotlar Kathryn Hahn, who starred in Amazon series Transparent, wore this pair of Sethi Couture diamond earrings

Nominee Diane Lane wore this pair of diamond and emerald earrings made by Harry Kotlar
Photo Source: Helga Esteb / Shutterstock

 

Some stars opted for creative studs over long earrings, such as SAG winner Rachel McAdams who wore a pair of large cluster studs by Harry Kotlar that were set with baguette-cut and pear-shaped diamonds.

SAG Award winner Rachel McAdams wore this pair of Harry Kotlar diamond earrings

Rachel McAdams wore Harry Hotlar diamond earrings in Elie Saab gown
Photo Source: Helga Esteb / Shutterstock

SAG Award winner Rachel McAdams wore this pair of Harry Kotlar diamond earrings

SAG Award winner Rachel McAdams wore this pair of Harry Kotlar diamond earrings

 

Younger stars opted for luxe versions of some of the new trend-led earring styles that have proved popular in recent seasons. Modern Family star Ariel Winter chose a pair of diamond-set earrings by Jack Vartanian that crept up and out from her lobe, while Orange is the New Black actress Kimiko Glenn wore a pair of creative ear climbers by LeVian set with white and chocolate diamonds.

Modern Family star Ariel Winter wore these Jack Vartanian diamond earrings Modern Family star Ariel Winter wore these Jack Vartanian diamond earrings

Modern Family star Ariel Winter attended the 22nd SAG Awards
Photo Source: Helga Esteb / Shutterstock

 

Modern Family star Ariel Winter wore these Jack Vartanian diamond earrings

Modern Family star Ariel Winter wore these Jack Vartanian diamond earrings

 

Orange is the New Black actress Kimiko Glenn wore this pair Le Vian diamond ear climbers to the SAG Awards 2016

Orange is the New Black actress Kimiko Glenn in Maalouf strapless gown attended the 22nd SAG Awards
Photo Source: Helga Esteb / Shutterstock
 

Orange is the New Black actress Kimiko Glenn wore this pair Le Vian diamond ear climbers to the SAG Awards 2016

Kimiko Glenn wore this pair Le Vian diamond ear climbers to the SAG Awards 2016

 

 

TV presenter Zuri Hall wore these diamond earrings by Antonini during the SAG Awards

TV presenter Zuri Hall wore these diamond earrings by Antonini during the SAG Awards

 

While rings remained popular on the red carpet at the SAG Awards 2016, it was the statement earrings that certainly stole the show.

 


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2016/02/04

The next round of the red carpet season in the US was the Screen Actors Guild Awards, more commonly known as the SAG Awards, which were held 30 January. It’s one of the lesser influential of the red carpets events during awards season but it is still important in determining trends in fashion in the U.S., including jewellery.

 

The SAGs advanced the conservative theme started by the Golden Globes Awards. In fact, it may have expanded upon it. White diamonds with white metals with little variation, ruled the red carpet adding credence to what many in the industry are angry about (off the record) that pay-to-play has taken over the red carpets in Hollywood.

 

It may be more than just the large brands with their money taking over and may extend to the diamond industry itself. White diamonds paired white metals is practically the trademark for high-end diamond jewellery. Certainly the De Beers diamond jewellery brand, Forevermark had a very strong showing. Ironically, it also was one of the more innovative in its use of star power and jewels available.

 

Since the World Gold Council dropped its Love Gold initiative, there has been no one pushing yellow gold on the red carpet. The coloured gem industry is too fragmented to make the kind of marketing push it would take to get more colour on the biggest Hollywood stages.

 

Whatever is going on, variety, diversity innovation and creativity are taking a back seat to convention. It’s bad enough that these traits have largely been lost on the mass market. But even high jewellery is becoming less diverse.

 

When 70-year-old Helen Mirren is the star of the red carpet then there’s something wrong. Mirren wore at least 85 carats of Harry Winston diamond and platinum jewels, including the Secret Combination Diamond Earrings, 18.36 carats, Secret Combination Diamond Bracelet, 64.20 carats, and Lotus Cluster Diamond Ring, 1.33 carats, set in platinum.

 

Actress Helen Mirren wore at least 85 carats of Harry Winston diamond and platinum jewels
Actress Helen Mirren wore at least 85 carats of Harry Winston diamond and platinum jewels; 
Photo Credit: 
Steve Granitz/WireImage

 

Mirren is truly beautiful and a fashion icon, particularly on the red carpet, but there are many beautiful and accomplished younger actresses that could certainly share the spotlight.

 

Forevermark, to its credit, did place its jewels on younger actresses and even included a touch of coloured gold. In fact, the De Beers diamond brand may have been the most successful at the SAGs. Their jewels appeared on the following actresses:

Actress Helen Mirren wore at least 85 carats of Harry Winston diamond and platinum jewels

Laura Prepon wore Forevermark bangles and ring, as well as an 18k white gold diamond necklace
Photo Credit: Helga Esteb/ Shutterstock

Kate Mara (right), who wore Forevermark by Jade Trau’s 18k yellow gold and diamond “Halo” cuff and 18k rose gold “Duet” cuff attended the 22nd SAG Awards with Rooney Mara (left) Kate Mara (right), who wore Forevermark by Jade Trau’s 18k yellow gold and diamond “Halo” cuff and 18k rose gold “Duet” cuff

 

Kate Mara (right), who wore Forevermark by Jade Trau’s 18k yellow gold and diamond “Halo” cuff and 18k rose gold “Duet” cuff,  attended the 22nd SAG Awards with Rooney Mara (left)
Photo Credit: Helga Esteb/ Shutterstock

 

Kate Mara (right), who wore Forevermark by Jade Trau’s 18k yellow gold and diamond “Halo” cuff and 18k rose gold “Duet” cuff attended the 22nd SAG Awards with Rooney Mara (left) Kate Mara (right), who wore Forevermark by Jade Trau’s 18k yellow gold and diamond “Halo” cuff and 18k rose gold “Duet” cuff


Saoirse Ronan wore Forevermark “Winged” earrings, in 18k white gold
Photo Credit: Helga Esteb/ Shutterstock

 

Actress Jackie Cruz, to her credit, chose one of the less familiar brands and added a bit of colour for the SAGs. She wore Arya Esha’s rose quartz and diamond “Ares” mini ring. Rose quartz is this year's Pantone Colour of the Year.

 

Next comes the all-important Academy Awards where we will see if this white-on-white trend continues.


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2016/02/03

Last week I hopped on the Eurostar from London to visit Paris for the day to take a look at some of the newest haute joaillerie unveiled during the spring 2016 edition of Paris Couture Week. Here are five of my favourites. 
 

Signature de Chanel cuff by Chanel 

Chanel presented new collections of jewels inspired by its famous quilt called Signature de Chanel. It is the first time that the fashion house has used the quilting pattern in its high jewellery collections, although it did use it for the Coco Crush fine jewellery collection that launched through Net-a-Porter last year. One of my favourite designs from the collection was the Signature d’Or 18ct yellow gold bracelet set with 1,054 diamonds weighing 43.3cts. The bracelet is made up of individual diamond-set gold plates, placed together to create the quilt pattern. Each plate is individually attached to an inner structure so that when you shake the cuff it makes a very pleasant rattling noise. 

 

Signature de Chanel cuff

Signature de Chanel cuff

 

To see a video of this in action, head to my Instagram page at @rachaeltaylorgram 

 

Ama earrings by Boucheron 

During Paris Couture Week, Boucheron unveiled new creatures added to its Animals collection, which has been steadily building since its inception in 1858. One of the most striking new designs on display was a pair of earrings named Ama, which take the form of a pair of fish. The large earrings have hooks at the top designed to sit on top of the ears, and also clips to secure the earrings to the lobes before the earrings flow down into large amethyst drops topped with diamond pavé. The bodies of the fishes are decorated with triangular amethyst cabochons and diamonds, while the tails have been created using diamonds and purple lacquer.  

Ama earrings by Boucheron

Ama earrings by Boucheron 

 

 

Disruptive hair cuff by Dauphin

 This white gold and diamond creation by Parisian brand Dauphin looks like a ring, but it is actually a luxurious hair clip. The shape of the hair cuff is a continuation of the brand’s C-shaped rings that explore designer Charlotte Dauphin de la Rochefoucauld’s interest n broken geometries. The design is from the brand’s new Disruptive collection, which also includes solitaire rings with off-centre stones and asymmetrical double rings. 

 

Disruptive hair cuff by Dauphin

Disruptive hair cuff by Dauphin

Queen of Sheba earrings by Lydia Courteille 

The theme was very much a green one at Lydia Courteille, which unveiled its new Queen of Sheba collection during Paris Couture Week. This pair of earrings from the collection have been crafted from gold blackened with rhodium plating and set with diamonds, sapphires, tsavorites, peridots, opals and tourmalines. Both facets and cabochons have been used, as well as a mix of cuts and sizes. At the top of the earrings you can see opals set in a cross formation and tiny diamond-set snakes, which are motifs that are repeated throughout the collection.  

Queen of Sheba earrings by Lydia Courteille

Queen of Sheba earrings by Lydia Courteille 

 

Granville ring by Dior  

The boldest jewellery launch of Paris Couture Week was Granville. The collection, which also included special edition D de Dior gemstone dial watches, was named after the town in France where Christian Dior’s childhood home was. Granville’s designer Victoire de Castellane says she tried to capture the fun of childish games in these new designs. There is no symmetry anywhere in the collection, with opposing sides of earrings and cocktail rings clashing wonderfully. This rose gold ring is a great example, with a light green tourmaline surrounded by coloured gems in a variety of hues, cuts, sizes and setting techniques. 

 

Granville ring by Dior

Granville ring by Dior  


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2016/02/02

The global surge in platinum demand (including India) will keep its market under pressure. Robust jewellery and automobile demand will create deficit in supply, as a result the global market is likely to remain in shortage during next six years, according to a report published by the World Platinum Investment Council (WPIC).

 

Platinum jewellery- Prospective future in India
Platinum jewellery- Prospective future in India

 

Under the light of this report, we tried to assess the performance and outlook of platinum in India in a discussion with Ms. Vaishali Banerjee, Manager of Platinum Guild India (PGI). Highlighting the strategy which PGI adopted to increase the platinum demand in India, she said, “The strategy was to create emotional, value added branded propositions clearly positioned and differentiated from gold.  This branded approach has been well received by the trade as an incremental business opportunity, whilst being in line with shifting consumer trends at retail.”

 

“The strategy specifically aimed to deliver the platinum meaning and experience in an extraordinary way to drive aspiration. This was both through communication and the product itself. Positioned as rare, eternal and a more precious metal with the promise of everlasting love, platinum is now considered a befitting gift of love amongst couples, parent- child and siblings. Our recent consumer research shows that young audience associate platinum with love and commitment and believe that choosing platinum reflects their discernment.  Platinum has begun to establish a distinct identity within the vast Indian jewellery space,” Vaishali added.

 

The platinum market in India has grown 10 times during the last six years and the metal continues to remain an important part of the retailers and manufacturers business development strategy. Platinum Day of Love continues to be the largest segment with Platinum Love Bands accounting for 61% of the product sales. Men’s segment a comparatively newer category stands at 21%.

 

According to the WPIC report, total global demand for platinum was 2,295 koz during the third quarter of 2015, up by 260 koz from Q2 2015. Platinum jewellery demand for Q3 2015 is estimated at 790 koz, up 19% on the previous quarter, with notable increases in China, North America and India. Elevated jewellery demand in China was driven by restocking ahead of the wedding season and the national holiday, while India represented the strongest region in terms of growth, with Q3 sales up over 20% from Q2.

 

Commenting further on the platinum performance in India, Vaishali said, ”Leveraging platinum’s strong emotional and aspirational appeal in its core TG, we have expanded the platinum footprint into the bridal segment with Platinum Evara. In its initial phase we have seen a positive response from both consumers and retailers. Platinum Evara has opened up additional volume sales opportunity for retailers. The retailers are upbeat for this category as the consumer response has exceeded their expectations. Pt Evara programme currently has 56 doors enrolled, with 29 Flagship stores & 27 Concept stores. Additional 41 doors are in the pipeline for being enrolled into the programme by December2015. All current 56 stores have reported sales. Necklace sets & bangles constitute 60% of Evara jewellery sales, balance being chains & bracelets for women.”

 

Talking about the outlook of 2016, Vaishali said, “We will continue to maximize the consumer opportunity and desire for the Platinum by ensuring higher consumer engagement and conversion.  For both Platinum Day of Love and Men’s , the strategy would be to drive the right merchandising mix, consumer experience, training and retail activation to ensure conversion and prevent loss of opportunity. Since most of our core audience is online it becomes essential for us to be future forward in our digital strategy. We have an integrated marketing program led by digital to engage the consumer, build consideration and create brand believers.”

 

“With an aim to reach more consumers, we will target regional chains and large independents in tier two cities to increase retail presence for PDOL and Men’s jewellery,” she added.


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2016/02/01

When we talk about introducing colour to engagement rings, this usually focuses on choosing a coloured gemstone over a diamond, but there are some pioneering new jewels that are experimenting with metal colour.

 

British jeweller Glenn Spiro has launched a collection of engagement rings with London department store Harrods that do just that. The collection, which is called I Do, presents classic diamond solitaires but uses titanium in place of gold or platinum.

 

A diamond solitaire in blued titanium from the I Do collection by Glenn Spiro at Harrods
A diamond solitaire in blued titanium from the I Do collection by Glenn Spiro at Harrods

 

The titanium, which is a signature metal of Spiro’s, can be annodised to change its colour. The rings in the I Do collection, which is a collaboration between Spiro and his son Joseph, have been turned bright cobalt blue, cognac, green and pink.

 

Diamond solitaire set in blued titanium by Glenn Spiro at Harrods
Diamond solitaire set in blued titanium by Glenn Spiro at Harrods

 

“Engagement rings are designed to mark an incredibly special occasion, but they’ve become quite uniform,” says Spiro. “We wanted to create something much more surprising and unique.”

 

Parisian jewellery house Repossi has also created an engagement ring line that could easily be described as unique. Listed amongst the suggestions on its website for engagement rings is the Antifer, a solitaire set in bright pink metal. This unusual colour of metal has been created by applying a fuschia rhodium plating to white gold.

 

Repossi has plated white gold in fuchsia rhodium to create an engagement ring with a difference
Repossi has plated white gold in fuchsia rhodium to create an engagement ring with a difference

 

Repossi also has an inky black engagement-and-wedding-ring combo in the Serti sur Vide collection. The dark metal is a black chrome-gold alloy, and the design joins the two rings at the back of the finger with a bar, which keeps a distance between them on the finger, and the pear-shaped diamond on the engagement band has been offset to the side.

 

A combined wedding and engagement ring in black gold by Repossi
A combined wedding and engagement ring in black gold by Repossi

 

Men’s wedding jewellery has also been enjoying a boost of colour at British wedding ring manufacturer Brown & Newirth. The company recently unveiled a selection of Celtic-inspired men’s wedding bands decorated with coloured enamels in reds, greens and pearly whites.

 

Gold and coloured enamel Celtic-inspired wedding bands by British manufacturer Brown and Newirth
Gold and coloured enamel Celtic-inspired wedding bands by British manufacturer Brown and Newirth

 

Red enamel gives this Celtic-inspired wedding band from Brown and Neuwirth a colourful twist
Red enamel gives this Celtic-inspired wedding band from Brown and Neuwirth a colourful twist


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