The British Fashion Council has added five new designers to the line up for its London Fashion Week (18-22nd September) fine jewellery initiative Rock Vaults, and a common theme knitting this diverse selection of jewellers together is an unusual approach to gemstones.
A SS15 campaign shot created by Lily Kamper shows off a green and white resin and perpex necklace.
Completedworks, Lily Kamper, Rachel Boston, Rufier and The House of Ana de Costa will join existing Rock Vault jewellers at the SS16 show in September. Each had to apply to a judging panel of industry experts chaired by British jeweller Stephen Webster, and beat off some stiff competition to win a place.
Lily Kamper works with resin to create gemstone effects as well as bright Perspex to add colour.
Each jeweller’s work is very different, from the opulence of the House of Ana de Costa’s jewels to the slick unisex creations made by Rachel Boston, or the irreverent Visage stacking rings from Rufier that can be placed in such a way to make an amusing series of facial expressions. But one theme that each of these jewellers has experimented with is unorthodox gems, be that an unusual cut or selection, or a new way of working with gems.
Rachel Boston’s latest collection Cosmos works with diamond slices, celebrating the imperfections created by inclusions. Completedworks, meanwhile, works with erupting jade and marble to recreate the faded grandeur of crumbling classical columns in its Pillar Diamond ring collection.
This one-of-a-kind Glacier ring by Rachel Boston stars a 4.5ct white diamond slice with black inclusions, looped by white and brown diamonds.
A column of Italian marble erupts from this 18K yellow gold and diamond Incomplete Column ring by Completedworks.
A first glance at the Stella collection by Rufier will immediately garner another, because on first viewing the tsavorites, sapphires and tourmalines appear to have melted. What has happened instead is that triangular-cut stones have been set in inverse pyramidal cups, causing the highly polished 18K yellow gold to create a rainbow of reflections around the gems.
The Stella collection by Rufier cleverly places triangular gemstones in polished gold inverted pyramids to create a reflection that makes the gems appear to be melted.
The House of Ana de Costa turned a traditional gem on its head in its Alchemy collection when it trapped diamonds inside a miniature hourglass. The glass phial is placed at the centre of a pendant that can be spun and so the diamonds are free to tumble from one section of the glass to the other.
Diamonds are allowed to tumble inside a glass phial at the centre of a spinning pendant in the Alchemy collection by Ana de Costa.
Lily Kamper stands out among the new Rock Vault pledges as it does not work with precious or semi-precious gems. What is does do though is present colour-treated Perspex and hand-turned resin in the same way, again offering a twist on the gemstone jewellery norm.